Paris is my la-la land

August 1, 2018 -- Occasionally, Tom takes an after-dinner stroll by himself because he has had no exercise all day.  That's what the life is like for a writer/editor.  He took one of these solo strolls last night.  I had already walked several miles, so he understood that I wanted to stay home and enjoy the evening view from the balcony.

Along his route, he encountered a beautiful cat.  He wanted to take a picture of it to show me, but he doesn't really know how to use the camera on his phone.  Usually, when we're out and about, I take the photos (with my phone). 

He tried.  He thought he failed completely.  But this morning when I opened Google photos, I saw two brief videos, inadvertently taken by Tom.  They showed the gorgeous cat.  Here he is:

When we are out walking together, I will have to show Tom how to use his camera. 

On my walk this morning, the air was cool and pleasant.  I walked up the Avenue de la Motte Picquet into the heart of the 7th arrondissement.  I crossed the Esplanade des Invalides and turned up the rue de Bourgogne, headed toward the majestic Place du Palais Bourbon.  But I turned back on the rue de Grenelle before I reached that Place. 

I paused for some time to read the display on the fence in front of the hôtel particulier (stately home) that now serves as the headquarters for the Maison de la Chimie, a foundation for the advancement of chemical science.  I have admired this building for years; the foundation does a fine job of maintaining it.

Maison de la Chimie on the rue de Grenelle in the 7th arrondissement.

The foundation does many things, but some of its projects are dedicated to research on climate change, and what can be done about it. 

Speaking of environmental disasters, Tom and I are deeply disturbed by what is happening back home.  Three types of harmful algae blooms are occurring in our coastal waters in southwest Florida.  They are due to releases of polluted, nutrient-laden water from Lake Okeechobee.  The pollution comes from Big Agriculture.  The water has been managed so that our environment takes all the damage, while Big Agriculture thrives, making piles of money every year.  There is supposed to be "shared adversity" in the way this water is managed.  But instead, lobbyists for publicly subsidized Big Ag get their way every time.  This must stop!

Harmful algae blooms have occurred in France's coastal waters; I've written about them in this blog years ago.  But I don't think France has ever experienced the massive fish kills -- even massive sea turtle deaths! -- the way that southwest Florida is.  I don't think Big Ag has quite the strangle-hold over politicians in France as they do in Florida. 

On the Avenue de la Motte Picquet, Place Salvador Allende has a lovely fountain in the middle.
I've often wondered if it is spring-fed, but haven't been able to find that answer.  I do know that
the fountain itself came from the Place de la Madeleine; it was created by the architect
Gabriel Davioud and sculpted in white marble by Théophile Murguet in 1864.  The Place
was given this name because Chili's embassy is across the street.

Ultimately, it is the voters' fault for electing corrupt politicians year after year.

Because I read the Washington Post and my email every day, I'm also disturbed by other things like the Carr fire and the death of a policeman in Lee County, FL. 

This is for my friends who belong to the Lions Club.  The Lions exist in
Paris on the rue du Champ de Mars in the 7th arrondissement.

Tonight we dine with friends at Le Tipaza.  We certainly will have plenty to talk about, with all this bad stuff happening back home.  A couple of the friends who will be at dinner tonight are from Britain.  I know Tom will quiz them about what's happening with Brexit.  There is much to discuss, indeed.

I don't know if we will get a year-round apartment in Paris.  But I do know we will stay here longer next year -- perhaps four months.  Europe has its problems, too, but Paris is my la-la land.

Paris in the summer, when it sizzles

August 27, 2016 -- The restaurant Bacco on the rue Mademoiselle gets into the spirit of the 15^th arrondissement’s past with a décor that is “industrial.”  The tables have metal tops, the colors are dark, lighting is good, and lines are simple.  We were warmly greeted when we entered; the hostess called me “Madame Barbara.”

We were pleased that the air conditioning was turned on for this sizzling hot evening, but we noticed that it seemed a little weak.  Sure enough, as the dinner hour went on, more people filled the space, and the kitchen fired away – the dining room became uncomfortably warm.

Mural at the top of an apartment building near the avenue de la Motte Picquet

We were given a mis en bouche of velvety, cool potato soup with several other flavors blended in – too many to remember.  But it was delicious.

Our starter course was very good, too:  la burratina: mozzarella burratina D.O.P.*, pesto de pistache, caviar d’aubergine et jambon de Parme Ferrari 24 mois.  This was a mozzarella burrata with pistachio pesto, eggplant, and Parma ham aged 24 months.  Balsamic vinegar and olive oil were brought to the table with it, so I drizzled some on the plate.  I’ve never had a burrata that was so good!

Tom’s main course was l’onglet d’Angus : cœur d’onglet de bœuf Angus, sauce au poivre sauvage de Madagascar, pommes « Pont-Neuf », asperges vertes et carotte nouvelles.  These were morsels of Angus beef steak with wild pepper sauce from Madagascar, “Pont Neuf” potatoes (essentially, steak fries), asparagus, and baby carrots.  Tom said the beef was good, and correctly prepared given the type of cut.  But most interesting was the way the dish was arranged on its rectangular plate (below).

My main dish was le risotto tourteau-gambas: risotto à la chair de tourteau et au safran, gambas juste poêlées, pointes d’asperges vertes, coulis de pousse d’épinard au beurre noisette.  This was a crabmeat and jumbo shrimp risotto with saffron asparagus, and a spinach sauce with brown butter.  It looked beautiful but the flavor was a little heavy and dull.  The shrimp were almost overcooked, but not quite.  I didn’t finish the risotto, which caused the waiter a little concern.  He asked about it, and I explained that it was good, but “c’est beaucoup” – too much.

Crabmeat and jumbo shrimp risotto at Bacco.

Our shared dessert was le canon de cacao: Parfait glacé à la mangue, fruit de la passion, cylindre de cacao croustillant garni de mousse légère au chocolat blanc.  It was excellent!  The centerpiece of it was a cylinder made of a thin crust of cocoa filled with a light white-chocolate mousse. 

The cocoa cannon with white chocolate moose and mango sherbert.

Chef Olivier Thiebaut is doing a good job at Bacco, but the menu is short, so it is difficult to visit the restaurant very frequently – there just isn’t enough variety.  But it is open for both lunch and dinner, and its style of cuisine – a mix of French and Italian – is unique for the neighborhood.

The neighborhood was quiet again as I walked early this morning.  Joggers, delivery truck drivers, and a few walkers like me were the only people out and about as the sun rose just after 7AM.

I walked up the Avenue de la Motte Picquet.  When I was near the equestrian statue across from the Ecole Militaire, a little woman passing by me stopped to say, in French, that this is the only time of day when there is a little coolness for walking.  We chatted about the weather for a minute or two, and then went on our separate ways. 

The St Francois Xavier church on the
Boulevard des Invalides

If this were a small town, I wouldn’t have been surprised.  But to be stopped by a stranger on the streets of Paris just for idle chit-chat is very unusual.  I took it as a sign that this will be a good day.

I walked to rue Cler.  The only action on that market street was – you guessed it – several trucks making deliveries.  After inspecting that sleepy market, I continued on the rue de Grenelle to the Place Salvador Allende, then turned back to the Avenue de la Motte Picquet toward home.  On the way, I looked up to see a cute mural of an old blue race car at the top of an apartment building just off the avenue. 

I went on to the Place du Commerce again, because I’ve learned that pausing there for a rest before going home is a great way to cool off.  The park benches are clean, and the flower beds are stunning.

I sit beneath the trimmed chestnut trees with my back to the Commerce Café, so I just hear the pleasant clinking of tableware being arranged and set.  I pretend to look at my phone a little, but I’m really listening to the birds.

Another sizzling summer day has dawned in Paris.

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*Denominazione di Origine Protetta

Just photos and captions today

August 17, 2016

Door to the chapel at the Clinique Blomet private hospital, on the rue Blomet.

Old workshops are scattered throughout the 15th arrondissement, which was a fairly industrial area in the 19th Century.  This one, sandwiched between an old Grenelle village home and an apartment building, has been turned into a light, airy house (on the rue des Freres Morane).
 The windows face west.

Shop on the rue de Cronstadt where picture frames and other lovely things are restored.

Place Salvador Allende, in the 7th arrondissement, near Les Invalides.  Up until 2003, this park was called Place Santiago-du-Chili.  The brasserie in the background is called La Source, and so I wonder if the fountain in this park is spring-fed?

Les Invalides, above and below.

The statue of Thomas Jefferson, holding his plans for Monticello (below)

(on the Seine, across from rue Solferino).

Shadow on a ubiquitous blue door, on the Place du Palais Bourbon.