Taking care of a treasure

At last, the leadership of the 15th arrondissement is building up the will to improve the somewhat-neglected yet wonderful Île aux Cygnes, with its popular walkway, the Allée des Cygnes (Swan's Way).  After decades of what seemed like nobody taking responsibility for this iconic place, the 15th arrondissement's town hall is taking ownership. 

Allée des Cygnes, on the Île  aux Cygnes.  Usually, there are no bicycles on the Allée.

While walking to Rue Lecourbe on Friday, I noticed a flyer posted on a light pole.  Its message was directed at the locals, urging them to vote to support the undertaking of a couple projects that would greatly improve the Île.

The beat-up park benches, particularly in the area near the Statue of Liberty, are being targeted for replacement in these proposals.  More poubelles (trash containers) would be installed to accommodate the waste from the many people who love to picnic on the Île.  The walkway itself would be restored, too.

I am a frequent visitor of parks in the 15th, and I do believe much of the problem is simply that the Île is not maintained at anywhere near the same standards as places like Parc Saint Lambert, where the park benches are cleaned and painted regularly, litter is collected frequently, trash containers are emptied daily, and running water is available.  Much could be accomplished by simply adding the Île to the daily "to-do" list.

There have been a couple improvements to the Île in recent years: (1) the identification of the many trees and addition of educational signs about each type of tree, and (2) the installation of sports equipment in the sheltered area near the Statue of Liberty.

But it is never a good idea to add improvements where there is no plan for regular maintenance.  I just know that the 15th can do a much better job of taking care of the Île because the 15th does so very well with its other parks and public spaces.  Capital improvements alone will not do the trick; regular and attentive maintenance is a must.

Here's a translation of one of the 15th's web pages about the proposed improvements:

Created in 1825, the Ile aux Cygnes is nowadays a popular area for walkers, runners, and joggers. It stretches over 890 meters long, between the 15th and the 16th.  On its downstream end is the statue "The freedom guiding the people" of Auguste Bartholdi [the Statue of Liberty] and on its upstream end, it features the statue "La France Renaissante."  Remarkable for its biodiversity, it is home to nearly 70 different tree species and has become a refuge for many species living on the Seine [including a few swans]. In connection with the Emeriau-Zola District Council, the island has already been upgraded by the creation of an arboretum, the creation of a sports area, and the change of railings of the esplanade. But the main walkway, stairs, and furniture remain in a very old state and require extensive renovation. Given the addition of the Île aux Cygnes within the boundaries of the Seine banks protected under UNESCO, it is more important than ever to restore brilliance to this original and unusual space, as proposed by this project, which is estimated to cost 500,000 €.

Yes, indeed, the recent addition of the Île to the UNESCO world heritage site was an effective way to shame leaders into action, it seems.

Two poubelles at this end of the Allée; these trash containers are plastic bags held in a metal framework.

You notice that the author of the paragraph refers to the Île location as "between the 15th and 16th"?  This attitude is at the root of the problem.  The Île is not BETWEEN the arrondissements; it is within the 15th, according to official maps and according to history; it was created to benefit the ports along the 15th arrondissement side of the river.  These are lucrative ports; they host many a European river cruise ship during Parisian sojourns.

Tom and I took a very slow stroll up and down the Île yesterday afternoon.  I took a small sketchbook with me and started a sketch of the apartment building near Radio France as Tom and I sat on a bench in a shady spot, looking over at the 16th arrondissement.  Lots of folks were out walking along the Seine on the Île; we were fortunate to snag a bench just as a photographer was packing up to leave it.

Looking over at the Joie de Vivre river cruise ship, from the Île.

The apartment building near the Radio France building, in the 16th arrondissement.

Looking at the 16th from the Île.

Under the metro overpass, on the Île, is a popular place to leave graffiti messages.
This says, "Monique, killed by a gunshot by her husband.  104th feminicide."

One of the flyers urging locals to vote for improving the Île.

Where the Allée rises to meet the Pont de Grenelle, where the Statue of Liberty resides.

People sitting on beat-up park benches near the Statue of Liberty.

Uniworld's Joie de Vivre cruise ship, with its lovely scarlet and gray sun umbrellas.

Walking back from the Île, looking at Beaugrenelle and the Front de Seine.

The Joie de Vivre, at the partly shaded Port de Grenelle.

Swan's Way to OZ, then dinner in the Cosmos

The somewhat neglected but nevertheless lovely Île aux Cygnes is getting the attention it deserves, at last.

Here's a translation of recent happy events announced in the town hall's magazine for the 15th arrondissement:

The Seine, on the 15th arrondissement side.

The Île is now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Following a vote taken in the Paris Council in November 2018 by the municipal majority of the 15th at the initiative of Claire de Clermont-Tonnerre, the emblematic island of our arrondissement has just been integrated into the protected perimeter of the Banks of the Seine project, following a vote of the Paris Council in June. This artificial dike, dominated by the famous Statue of Liberty illuminating the world, is an exceptional place of biodiversity with the presence of 250 trees, including about sixty different species from the whole world (China, Japan, ...).  It should be noted that a renovation project was submitted as part of the 2019 Partial Budget by the Emeriau/Zola Neighborhood Council.

The "Swan's Way" (Allée des Cygnes) is the walkway that courses straight down the middle of the long, narrow island, connecting the Bir Hakeim and Grenelle bridges.  Swan's Way is our favorite place to walk during the late afternoon rush hour on a warm summer day.  The Allée is lined by those 250 trees, and the island is surrounded by the serene waters of the Seine instead of automobiles driven by people in a hurry.

Allée des Cygnes, or Swan's Way.

The headquarters of UNESCO are not far away -- they're even partly in the same arrondissement.  I wonder what took so long for this recognition to happen.

For a while, it was unclear as to which arrondissement the island belongs to.  Neither one seemed to take much responsibility for it.  The island has probably always been officially in the 15th, because it was created as part of a project to benefit the ports on the 15th's side of the Seine.  Nevertheless, several French journalists would refer to it as a part of the 16th, perhaps because so many people from the 16th use it for their daily walks and jogs.

That part of the 16th is deprived because it does not have a decent place to walk on the bank of the Seine; instead, it has a highway named for Georges Pompidou.  This stretch of the 15th, however, has -- in addition to the Île aux Cygnes --  a very walkable bank where two long ports are located -- the ports of Javel and Grenelle, which are home to many houseboats, a yacht club, sightseeing boats, and even river cruise ships.  This bank is an awesome place to walk and to ride a bike -- never-mind the cobblestones.

Last night, Tom and I walked the length of the island and strolled back toward home on the Rue Saint Charles.   Tom came to a standstill in front of 18 Rue Saint Charles.  What stopped him was a sign on a barbershop offering haircuts to men for only 12 euros.

Tree on the Rue Saint Charles.

That's even less than the 13 euros he's been paying at Look Coiffeur, a barbershop on the considerably less scenic Rue de la Croix Nivert.

This barber shop on the Rue Saint Charles -- named Coiffeur OZ -- is a little bigger and a little nicer than Look, too.  The owner came to the doorway to see if Tom was a customer, and Tom asked if the shop was going to be open long enough for him to get a much-needed haircut.  The answer was yes, so I promptly said I'd wait down at the square (intersection of the rues Saint Charles and Théatre).  The barber in the doorway seemed to be relieved when I said this.  

I think that wives do not wait inside barber shops like Look and OZ, which are run by men from North Africa.  How do I know this?  Just by instinct, I guess.  At any rate, I'd rather have a small glass of wine on a brasserie terrace on the peaceful square while I wait, thank you.

I'd not even finished that small glass when Tom came strutting down the street, newly and neatly shorn.  He described a funny conversation he'd had with the barbers as he tried to explain why his hair was growing in wildly different directions -- it is because of the medication he's taking.  It took a while for the mystified barbers to understand the relationship between the medication and Tom's crazy hair.

But they did seem to be satisfied with the explanation after a while.  Then the haircut was quick and efficient, resulting in very short hair.  I call Tom my Velveteen Rabbit, partly because of his short, silver hair, and partly because he is like the Energizer bunny (complete with drums and cymbals), and partly because Tom really likes rabbits.  He used to have a pet rabbit when he was a kid.

I digress.  

As we walked from the square toward home, we decided to try one of the brasseries very close to our apartment, on the Avenue Emile Zola.  We selected Cosmos, where all the tables on the sidewalk were occupied, and one nice table in the corner window seemed to be available.

Le Cosmos Café, a neighborhood brasserie where people drink cold beer on warm evenings.

We were welcomed and seated at that table, which had no other tables near it.  The bar was close by.

At the bar, a woman in flip flops was seated, with her two quiet, little, fluffy dogs nestled beneath her barstool.

The dogs were quiet until food arrived at our table -- a rack of lamb for me, and a burger with fries for Tom.

Two little dogs, trying to behave in the brasserie.

The dogs then began to whimper, whine, and beg.  After several minutes of listening to this pathetic serenade, Tom and I began to laugh.  We couldn't help it.

The food?  My rack of lamb and green beans were delicious, and the sautéed potatoes were terrible.  Tom's hamburger and fries were good.  Cosmos is obviously popular in the neighborhood.  Most people there were drinking large glasses of beer.

Rack of Lamb at Le Cosmos.

Hamburger and fries at Le Cosmos.

What a fine way to finish a warm summer day.

The cleaning and greening of the Seine

Two years ago, the government here announced a goal of making the Seine in Paris swimmable again.  Urban runoff is the main culprit in the pollution of the Seine's romantic waters.  Agricultural runoff from areas upstream is also partly responsible, but this is a big, sprawling city, and the runoff quantities are mind-boggling.

Here's the scene as we descended the cobblestoned ramp to the Seine, by the
Pont de Grenelle.

On my Saturday morning walk along the Allée des Cygnes, I looked down the at the water on the south side of that mid-river island, in the area where we've seen real swans in the past.  The swans are drawn to that particular area because the slope of the island's retaining wall, as it dips below the water surface, allows for a number of aquatic plants to thrive -- namely, water lilies and aquatic grasses that move in a wavy, flowing, never-ending dance.  The plants attract the fish, and the fish and plants attract the swans.

Aquatic plants growing by the Île aux Cygnes.   I could clearly see fish swimming here.

Wildflowers and other plants are allowed to grow freely along the walkways
of the banks of the Seine.

I believe this one is Acanthus Mollis (thanks, Cynthia!)

Tiny plants grow wildly in the chinks of the Seine's floodwall.

The water does look clearer than it has in the past.  As I gazed down into it, I could see fish swimming.

As warm as the weather has been, this was a welcome sight.  Harmful algae blooms are more likely in warmer weather.

Yesterday, the weather was merely very warm (high temp of 84 F), not hot like the day before (high temp of 95).  So Tom and I went for a long walk together, in the middle of the day.

After visiting a fun rummage sale in the Dupleix neighborhood (between our neighborhood and the Eiffel Tower), we followed the Boulevard de Grenelle to its end at the Seine.  We walked down the cobblestone ramp and past the many sightseeing boats.  When we reached the place where the riverbank passes beneath the Pont D'Iéna, I paused to check out the frayère that has been created there to give the fish a place to meet, spawn, and deposit their eggs.  (What is the noun for this place in English?  I don't know.  I cannot translate frayère.)

I was horrified to see that the mass of healthy aquatic plants there was littered on top with lots of plastic garbage.  Single use plastics just have to go!

Plastic garbage atop aquatic plants by the frayère beneath the Pont D'Iéna, very close to the Eiffel Tower.

The unintended frayère by the Île aux Cygnes is more successful, apparently, than this intentionally created frayère beneath the Pont d'Iéna, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower.

The mayor of Paris, Anne Hildago, has a wonderful plan for turning the Pont d'Iéna into a pedestrian-only, garden-laden connection of two more extensive, re-designed pedestrian only parks on either side of the river.  The re-design of the Champ de Mars would make it more of a park for real people, instead of the former military marching ground that it still vaguely resembles.  All put together, this "biodiverse corridor" will be the largest park in the city.

We're excited, partly because the Champ de Mars is our nearest big park, and partly because we love the pedestrianization of Paris.

A few of the Polynesian dancers and drummers gave a spontaneous performance
in the museum garden.

The Guardian published an article about the plans in June.  It contains an interesting discussion of the rationale behind the ever-ongoing de-emphasizing of automobiles in Paris.

The early afternoon warmed up, and soon Tom and I had to take a break from walking.  So we went to the café at the Quai Branly museum, which is now called the Café Jacques, in honor of Jacques Chirac, the former French president who really wanted to see this museum happen.

The food we've had at this café has always been very good.  But the space and the service is impersonal.

"My name is Olivier," says the knarly old olive tree by the Seine.

Tom had a very pretty brioche roll stuffed with expertly scrambled eggs.  I had a small Caesar salad with some chicken in it, and a bowl of refreshing, cold tomato soup with a few diced veggies and a bit of prosciutto, which I shared with Tom.  It was all delicious.

Finally, we were fed and rested enough to walk the rest of the way home.  We paused first to watch a band of Polynesian dancers and drummers in the museum's garden.  They were good!

A cool museum on a hot day

August 3, 2018 -- The day was warming early, so I departed early, hoping to have time to relax and cool down before my friends arrived at the wine museum yesterday.

I walked up the rue de Lourmel, soaking in the old, unpretentious 15th arrondissement charm which Lourmel still exudes.

Walking from the 15th to the 16th on the Pont de Bir Hakeim.  Notice bike
lanes down the middle.

A woman and her little girl stopped me at the rue Rouelle intersection.  I could see her bracing herself, facing the need to ask for directions in French.  I sensed that she was an American tourist, so I said, "You speak English?" after she'd stopped me with an "Escusez-moi."  She smiled and relaxed immediately.  She asked me where the Hotel Adagio was.  I knew exactly, and told her to turn right on rue du Theatre, the next corner, and keep going until she was almost at the river.

I am frequently stopped by people who need directions.  Usually, they are French speakers.  This was the first American who stopped me in a long time.  I wonder why more francophones ask me for help than do anglophones?

At the boulevard de Grenelle, I crossed to the northeast side to stay in the shade.  As I passed the big Castorama hardware and housewares store, I peered through the windows to get an idea of its size.  Yes, this seems like a big and useful store that is capable of filling the void that Zola Color left when it was replaced by Boulanger two years ago.

View from the Pont de Bir Hakeim.

I crossed the Seine on the double-decker Pont de Bir Hakeim.  No wedding photos were being made that early in the day, but surely there would be some in the afternoon.

At last I reached the bottom of the hill in the 16th arrondissement.  The wine museum was straight ahead on the Square Charles Dickens, at the end of the rue des Eaux (street of the waters).  Balzac's house was up the hill, slightly to my left.

In French, I greeted the young man in the arched entryway to the museum and told him that I was waiting for friends.  He graciously invited me inside and showed me to a seat in the wine tasting room, which was empty at that early hour.  I waited for about 20 minutes, just the right amount of time to cool down from the walk.

My four friends arrived and we had a great time touring the museum.  When we came upon some plaques with the French lyrics for old drinking songs about wine, three of us (the women) sang them, making up the melodies as we went along.  The museum managers, if they could hear us, were probably wondering if we'd already been drinking.  But we had not; we just know how to have a good time.

I recommend this museum because it is well organized and informative.  The collections it houses are interesting, and the ambiance of an ancient wine cellar is perfect.  Yes, mendicant monks of the Minims order carved the caverns and stored wine there starting in the 15th Century, and continuing right up to the Revolution, when their monastery was destroyed.  Then limestone for construction of Paris buildings was mined there.

Here are some photos from this cool museum:

The wine tasting room.

Bottling Champagne.

The cooper (barrel-maker).

Napoleon usually had a glass of wine before going into battle.

The museum has lots of nice collections of things, like these bottles and glasses.
I especially like the green glass bottle that includes a helping hand.

In the 19th Century, France wanted to build its wine export businesses.

Napoleon III asked Louis Pasteur to find out what made wine go bad and how to prevent it.

If you can read French, do not get the museum's English audio guide.  Its narrator is a bored young American man, and my, does he ever sound bored!  He also said "copper" instead of "cooper" when speaking of the one who makes barrels; that annoyed me.

After the tour, we were offered a glass of wine, which comes with the price of a ticket (13.50 euros).  We sat around talking and savoring the wine for an hour.  When it was time to walk home, I opted to walk along the Ile aux Cygnes with my friends, even though the route was longer.  I showed my friends how to reach the end of the Ile at the Pont de Bir Hakeim, where one bride and groom were being photographed.  We continued along the leafy way on that island, which must be a few degrees cooler than the streets.  We said our goodbyes and went our separate ways at the Statue of Liberty on the Pont de Grenelle.

Beautiful chocolate and hazelnut dessert at La Villa Corse.

I slipped into the Beaugrenelle mall for a couple blocks of air-conditioned walking.  The rest of the route was desert-hot, all the way to the Thomas cheese shop on the rue du Commerce where I bought fresh milk for my morning coffee.  Then at last I was home.

In the evening, Tom wanted to go to La Villa Corse, on the Boulevard de Grenelle, because we remembered dining there in the deadly heat wave of 2003, when that restaurant turned on its air conditioning.  Temperatures reached 104 degrees F in 2003.  Yesterday's temperature only went up to 93 degrees, with low humidity.

The restaurant's air conditioning was not on.  Somehow, we felt okay, sitting at a table in the noisy open window.  The food was good (sea bass and vegetables), but not particularly outstanding.  The shared dessert was beautiful and delicious.  But the restaurant was too expensive for what it was; the value was not great and the menu was quite limited.  So that's why only one other couple was dining there!

Tom walked me back to the rue du Commerce after dinner, and then he went for an evening walk, solo.  He'd had no exercise all day; he was not interested in going to the wine museum.  He'd just been sitting at the computer, working on the latest Norton textbook.  Tom is disciplined.

Now we are facing two more days of this second heat wave of the summer.  Hopefully we will get some relief from the heat on Saturday evening.  We know how to keep the apartment cool, even without air conditioning, and the humidity here is nothing like Florida's.  The temperatures drop into the 60s in the wee hours, so we begin each day, knowing that we will be fine.

Feasting without reservation

We'd been walking.  We were hungry.  It was dinnertime.  We had no reservations.

Still, when Tom asked about dinner, I suggested that we go to Le Blavet.

The Pont de Bir Hakeim was formerly called the Viaduc de Passy.  It is on the
opposite end of the Ile aux Cygnes from the Statue of Liberty.

Two decades ago, when we first dined at this little restaurant, Madame la Patronne would have frightened us with a scalding glare if we walked into her place without a reservation.  But she retired years ago, and Le Blavet is now much more relaxed -- like the river it is named for.

Without a reservation, we thought we'd be anonymous at Le Blavet (as real restaurant critics should be), but the chef periodically came out of the kitchen, stood behind the bar doing something, and kept looking right at me, like he was trying to figure out if I was really that person from Florida who continues to blog about restaurants in the 15th arrondissement, summer after summer.

Croustillan de Chevre at Le Blavet.

We've never met him in person.  He, like some other shy chefs, stays in the kitchen almost all the time.

At Le Blavet, two fixed price menus are offered.  The food is extraordinarily consistently excellent.

I ordered from the 27-euro fixed price menu, and Tom ordered from the 36-euro menu.  Each includes a starter, main course, and dessert.  No problem -- we brought our appetites with us, and we'd just walked four miles.

Sole Meunière at Le Blavet.

I started with a croustillant de chèvre -- a thin, crispy pastry wrapped around a deliciously warm little chunk of goat cheese.  It came with an onion "confiture" that was identical to the onion "chutney" that accompanied Tom's terrine de foie gras.  Both starters were delicious, and amazingly identical to the ones we remember from previous years' dining at Le Blavet.

Tom ordered the classic sole meunière, which came with the classic accompaniment, white steamed potatoes.  Sometimes sole meunière is served in a slight pool of clarified butter, and sometimes it is not.  I'm not sure which is more "correct."  The version at Le Blavet is served without the pool of butter.  The server did not offer to de-bone it for him;  that's just as well, because we de-bone our fish ourselves (maybe they remember that we do?).

Magret de Canard at Le Blavet.

My main course was a classic magret de canard.  It was wonderful.  It was superior to the magret I'd had at another, nearby restaurant recently.  The sauce was sweet and sour, with apples, and the accompaniment was a gratin of potatoes dauphinois.

We each had crêpes, but they were of different kinds.  Mine was two folded crêpes, one with dark chocolate sauce, and the other with rum sauce.  Plus there was a dollop of whipped cream and a small scoop of French vanilla ice cream.  

Le Blavet is on the Rue de Lourmel, south of the Avenue Emile Zola.

Tom's was a flat crêpe with roasted apples and a Calvados sauce, with vanilla ice cream.  

Fortunately we'd started dinner early, at 7:30PM, because the restaurant was hot and full by the time we left.  A large group of 20 or so people occupied the larger dining room.

This morning, I persuaded Tom to go to the market at Grenelle with me.  He needed a shirt and some socks, and believe me, these markets have the best prices for those kinds of things.  We meandered through the dense crowd at about 11AM, and Tom was successful in finding and buying what he needed.

We enjoyed looking at the Oriental rugs in the market, and in the window of a closed rug store on the Boulevard.  Caution:  do not buy Persian rugs in Europe now; you cannot take them home to the U.S. because of the current sanctions against Iran.

Most shops are closed on Sundays, except for those that sell food.  The latter tend to stay open on Sunday in this neighborhood because of the Grenelle market (which is on Sundays and Wednesdays, until about 1PM).  

Walking along the Ile aux Cygnes, in the middle of the Seine.

So we went to the grocery and bakery, and came home to have a "picnic" lunch before this final stage of the Tour de France.  The Tour comes to Paris today, and I adore watching all the helicopter views of La Capitale.

Au revoir!

The cool came back, just like that!

I'd seen the predictions.  The change was not unexpected.  Still, when it happened, we were excited.  The heat wave lifted, just like that!

View from our friend's home-exchange vacation apartment.

As if Mother Nature made a flick of her wrist, her weather wand sparked, and a stiff yet gusty breeze magically appeared in the early evening.  A few dried leaves on the sidewalk flitted this way and that.  Minutes later, the rain that had been threatening broke through the heavy atmosphere.  The thermometer dropped ten degrees F.

The air, which had been laden with bad ozone, became light and cool again.

All of this happened as we sat in Eclectic with our friend, W, having drinks.  The panoramic view of the riverbank through the restaurant's sweeping windows presented far away lightening bolts, big raindrops splashing forcefully, dramatically, on the pavement, people -- smiling -- dashing for cover.  Other people sauntering, delighting in being suddenly wet and cool.

The staff threw open Eclectic's two doors.  The cool breeze was a welcome addition to the air conditioning.  We heard thunder sounding as if it were in a muffled echo chamber.

Having drinks at Eclectic, in Beaugrenelle.

The three of us were so comfortable and happy at Eclectic that we decided, after an hour of drinks, to stay for dinner.  Tom and I ordered the Friday special:  moist, soft poached salmon -- with rice for me, and with fries for him.  W had a Burratina appetizer and indulged in the delicious bread.  W asked me what Burratina is; I replied that it is like Mozzarella, only much better.  One web site calls Burratina's taste "dreamy."

Afterwards, we went to Monoprix because W still needed a few necessities for the apartment where she is staying on the right bank, in the 16th, almost directly across from Eclectic, where we were drinking and dining.  She is doing a home exchange for her vacation, so a young Parisian family is enjoying Sanibel Island right now.

The Beaugrenelle Monoprix renovations have been completed since we were last there.  I'd say the renovation is a big success.  It is what you'd expect a Parisian grocery store to be -- attractively chic, practical, and reasonable.

View of the Statue of Liberty and Front de Seine from our
friend's home-exchange vacation apartment.

The walk from Monoprix to W's home-exchange apartment wasn't long.  We crossed the Seine on the Pont de Grenelle, where the Statue of Liberty stands, passed the Ogre restaurant that Tom and I would like to try sometime, and continued around the corner to the apartment building -- which was very similar to a building where we once had a home-exchange apartment for a few weeks, years ago.  We had exchanged our former rental house in Gulf Shores for that apartment, so that must have been somewhere between 2003 and 2008.

That apartment, too, belonged to a young Parisian family.  But their small children are now nearly grown ups.  That's what happens when a decade flies by.

The view from W's place is splendid.  The Seine, the Pont de Grenelle, the Statue of Liberty, and the Front de Seine.  If you lean out the window, you can even see the Eiffel Tower.

I could sit there for hours, watching the barges go by and the tourist boats turn around the Statue of Liberty end of the Ile aux Cygnes.  But we left after a brief visit and walked back down the avenues.  We'll see W and others on Wednesday.

By the time Tom and I were home, we'd walked 4 miles.  Not bad, considering that the first third of it was in 100 degree heat (but only 29 percent humidity) and air full of bad ozone.

Today, the air is clear and cool (in the 70s), with a pleasant and persistent breeze.  Peace.