An autumn afternoon adventure

We put our Navigo Easy passes to good use yesterday, zipping over to the Mabillon station on line 10 of the Metro, saving our energy for walking in that older quarter where we used to stay in September. (By the way, I now know that just after I hold my Navigo Easy pass over the purple part of the turnstile control, the blurry green window displays the number of tickets remaining on my pass.  Yesterday the green fuzz spelled out 12 solde, meaning I have a balance of 12 "tickets" yet to be used.) 

The Luxembourg Gardens

The Metro ride was quick and comfortable.  The Mabillon station's escalator took us up to the street level, and we began the day's adventure by exploring the indoor Marché Saint Germain, which was surprisingly open at 2:30PM.  I remembered this market being typically closed from 1 to 4PM, re-opening in the evening until 8PM.  Yesterday, about a third of the vendors remained open at mid-day, but our longtime favorites, a butcher and a cheese monger, were closed -- maintaining the old tradition.  A corner of the marché has been turned into a small restaurant; only one table was occupied when we passed by.

Romanescu in the marché

I've been looking for romanescu every time I walk through a market with produce vendors.  For the first time this year, I saw two heads of it at the one produce vendor who was open in the Marché Saint Germain yesterday.  I refrained from buying the veggie since we were out walking and because those two heads were a little meager and lacking color.  Perhaps I will find some robust romanescu tomorrow at the Grenelle market, which has considerably more fruits and vegetables than the much smaller Marché Saint Germain ever could.

When we left the marché, we walked around the back side of the grand church of Saint Sulpice.  Around at the front entrance, some ushers stood at the door, so I surmised that a special service or wedding was going to take place soon; we did not enter the church.  The weather was far too nice for us to be indoors anyway.

So we strolled down the Rue Ferou to the Luxembourg Gardens.  We visited the statues of the queens that are on the west side of the central gardens:  Anne of Austria, Marguerite de Provence, and, last but definitey not least, Sainte Clotilde, the wife of Clovis I and my 45th great grandmother.

There is nothing special about my being descended from her; millions of people must be.  I thank Ancestry.com for my being able to trace the root. 

Here's an enlightening article from The Guardian that explains how so very many people are descendents of folks like Clotilde, Clovis, Pippin, and Charlemagne.

For some reason, the plaque on the statue's base does not include Clotilde's birth year, but according to Wikipedia, it was 474.  Tom took an austere family photo of the two of us, then I bid granny farewell and we continued on our walk through the stunningly beautiful park. 

We continued through the two parks south of the Luxembourg Gardens until we reached the Place Ernest Denis, where we stopped to look at the magnificent Fontaine des Quatre Parties du Monde -- the Fountain of the Four Corners of the World.  This fountain was a joint effort of three sculptors:  Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux (1827-1875) won the commission for the fountain and he created the four female figures at the top; his student, Eugene Legrain, made the sphere; and Emmanuel Frémiet made the horses around the base.  I don't know for certain who made the turtles, but I'd guess that it was most likely Frémiet.

Fontaine des Quatre Parties du Monde

Strolling down the Boulevard Montparnasse, I remembered that I had not yet shown Tom the shopping gallery that I'd found near the famous and elegant brasserie, La Coupole:  Galerie des Parnassiens.  We took a little detour so he could see it.  These days, the gallery mainly serves as a way to get to the cinema at the southern end of it.  The gallery's shops and Chinese restaurant look a little tired, like some undistinguished throwbacks to the not-very-glorious past.   But the place is oddly quaint and worth seeing.

Speaking of cinemas -- there are so many of them in the stretch of the boulevard from La Coupole to the Montparnasse train station!  That seems unusual in these days of internet streaming.  Cinemas all over the world are disappearing, but here along this boulevard they survive.

Fontaine des Quatre Parties du Monde

Tom and I don't really understand why people like to walk down the commercial part of the Champs Elysées.  We think the Boulevard du Montparnasse is much more representative of a grand and very real Parisian boulevard.  Think about it:  all the famous old brasseries where great writers lingered, the bookstores, the nearby Montparnasse cemetery, the cinemas, and so on.

We rounded the corner at the enormous Necker children's hospital campus and soon found ourselves at a minor taxi stand on the Rue de Sevres.  My fitness app said we'd surpassed our walking goal for the day, and we were expecting a friend at our apartment in an hour.  So we asked a taxi driver to take us home.

Our friend Ann came by for a drink, and then we walked around the corner to dine at Le Café du Commerce.  Ann told us a little about her vacation in the Alps, but mostly we talked about literature and music.  She is an instructor at the Sorbonne; her field is medieval music.

After dinner, we walked with her to the Commerce Metro station and said our farewells.

Here are more photos from the day's adventure:

Above is a close up taken from the photo below.
In the upper right you see Sacre Coeur, all the way up in the
18th arrondissement, looking from this point in the
parks south of the Luxembourg Gardens.  It was a very clear day!

Fontaine des Quatre Parties du Monde

The Luxembourg Gardens

Sainte Clotilde (474-545)

Marguerite de Provence (1219-1295)

Anne de Bretagne

Anne of Austria (1601-1666)

Above and below:  part of a floral mosaic project on display
in the Luxembourg Gardens.

Graffiti protesting the lack of affordable housing, on a wall along the Rue Férou.

Place Saint Sulpice

Hotel Recamier (above) and its place just off the Place Saint Sulpice (below).

Saint Sulpice church as seen from Rue Paletine.

Scenes in the Marché Saint Germain (above and below).

Good things and good people

August 3, 2017 -- Health care costs are far lower in France than in the U.S.; we aren’t sure what the entire explanation for that may be.  Tom just had blood tests done here in Paris for 39 euros; these would have cost over $390 in the U.S.

We received the results only one day after the blood was drawn.  The blood was drawn at a laboratory that is only a few blocks from our apartment.  These labs are conveniently scattered all over Paris; we pass by them frequently on our walks.

The people working in the lab (the receptionists and the medical technologist) were all super friendly and helpful. 

Looking into Carte Blanche, and installation designed by Jacques Garcia at the Gobelins Galleries.

I won’t say that everything about the French health care system is better than we have in the U.S.  For example, I think the super-expensive medication that Tom is taking now (the one that is keeping him alive and well) is theoretically available in France, but it did not show up on the database of drugs that Tom’s doctor in Paris consulted.  Is that because the national health insurance here does not want to pay for a drug like that?  I don’t know, and I can’t find the answer on the internet.

We were very happy with Tom’s test results on Tuesday, and we celebrated by taking a pleasant walk in the 7^th arrondissement, through the neighborhoods on either side of the Champ de Mars, and up the rue Chevert to the Square Santiago du Chili, a charming little park located off the northwest corner of Les Invalides.  We sat there on a park bench for quite a while, soaking in life on a beautiful day.

Looking down at the floor of Carte Blanche.

The Tuesday afternoon walk didn’t seem like much, but it added up to over 10,000 steps.  Then we walked to Le Blavet for dinner.  By the time we returned home, I was surprised to see that we logged over 14,000 steps for the day.  All that walking seemed effortless.

Then we walked all the way home from the 13^th arrondissement yesterday, and dined at L’Alchimie which is nearby.  The total for the day was 12,000 steps, yet it seemed like we did more than that.  The moral of this story is that walking some distance to and from dinner is an easy way to increase your step count for the day.

Both dinners were delicious, but L’Alchimie still holds first place in my heart, when it comes to restaurants in Paris. 

Looking up at the ceiling of Carte Blanche.

On Tuesday, we were dining in Le Blavet on the night before it closed for vacation.  So there was only one choice for the main course:  duck breast in sweet-and-sour sauce with au gratin potatoes.  Tom had a delicious gazpacho starter course, and we both indulged in a Dame Blanche for dessert.

My starter was cocotte with foie gras.  I’ve never had cocottes before, because coddled eggs just don’t seem that appealing to me.  However, I enjoyed this dish so much at Le Blavet!  The dinner was all great, but we were one of only two tables occupied in the resto.  The other table was a couple of Americans who did not speak French.  They just stumbled on the place, I guess; they had no reservation. 

Les cocottes at Le Blavet.

As we were leaving, I congratulated them on selected a really good restaurant.  I explained that the limited menu was because the place was closing for vacation tomorrow, but that we’ve been dining there for 20 years, and the place is consistently good, and is a good value.

At L’Alchimie last night, we were given an especially warm greeting when we arrived.  That wonderful sole meuniere was still on the menu, so we both ordered it.  It was just as perfect as before – maybe the best sole meuniere I’ve ever tasted. 

For a starter, we consumed shrimp on a bed of avocado-based sauce.  It was a nice, summery dish.  We also shared a dessert: a rich, warm moelleux au chocolat.  Heavenly.

So that’s goodbye to Le Blavet and L’Alchimie for 2017!  We’ll return next summer.

The grounds at the old Gobelins tapestry factory.

The purpose of yesterday’s trip to the 13^th arrondissement was to visit the galleries of the Gobelins manufacturers and the Mobilier National.  I’d been reading about the history of both on the intenet.

The galleries had a special exhibition of chairs and sofas, called “Sièges en Société” (seats in society).  That may seem boring, but it was not.  Fine French furniture dating from 1700 to the nineteenth century is far from boring. 

In a round room off the back staircase leading to the upper gallery was a special installation called “Carte Blanche” by the designer Jacques Garcia.  It made use of mirrored walls, floor and ceiling, as well as a few tapestries, a couple well designed chairs, a fire screen, and a tree hanging upside down, decorated with colored glass ornaments, to create a dazzling and disorienting effect.  As I walked up to it, I had a sense that I might lose my balance and fall into it, as it if it were a deep and magical well.  I looked down at the mirrored floor, which was reflecting the mirrored ceiling, and it was like looking into infinity.  The same was true when I looked up at the ceiling. 

“Carte Blanche” is difficult to describe;  I hope the photos above help.

The courtyard at the Gobelins factory.

After our visit in the galleries, we watched a video about the Mobilier National’s workshops, where fine furniture is still made by hand – all to furnish government facilities like the Elysees Palace.  Then we strolled around the complex, and looked into the Gobelin’s handsome courtyard.

We began our walk home by strolling up the avenue des Gobelins to the boulevard de Port Royal.  We realized that we’ve never walked along that boulevard before.  It is lovely and shady, even though it has big hospitals on either side at the west end of it – the famous Val de Grace military hospital, and Cochin, the ancient maternity hospital.

By the time we crossed the avenue de l’Observatoire, where the boulevard de Port Royal becomes the boulevard Montparnasse, we were very hungry.  We stepped into a Vietnamese resto where we thought we could get something light. 

Gaspacho at Le Blavet.

The name of the place was Chao Sapa (150 boulevard Montparnasse).  As we were dining on two lunch specials (with a glass of wine, only 12.80 euros each!), the couple at the next table struck up a conversation with us.  Philippe and Nicole were their names.  He is a retired executive who is still on the board for Pernod Ricard.  For his work, he travelled all over the world.  She is the niece of the former president of Vietnam.  Her father and uncle (the president) were assassinated in a military coup in 1963.  She told us about a book, “The Lost Mandate of Heaven,” by Geoffrey Shaw, which tells her family’s story.  I plan to read it soon.

We talked with them for an hour.  Early on in the conversation, Philippe sought out our political persuasion.  I told him without hesitation where we stand.  He was pleased with that, and I am sure that is the reason our conversation went on for as long as it did.

Duck breast and au gratin potatoes at Le Blavet.

They both seemed not to have used their English in a while.  They were pleased to meet an English-speaking couple earlier in the day as they waited for an MRI for Philippe.  They were especially pleased to have another conversation with an English speaking couple (us) over lunch.

And so we have a couple of new friends who live in Paris.  They also have a place in Belgium (where Philippe was from originally) which they are trying to sell now, in an effort to downsize. 

Philippe and Nicole are fascinating people.  We look forward to seeing them again sometime.

Dame Blanche at Le Blavet.