Tuesday, August 16, 2016

They come and go

August 16, 2016 -- The rue des Frères Morane is named for a couple of pioneering aviators, Robert and Léon Morane, who lived in Paris.  Robert lived a long life, from 1886 to 1968, but Léon (b. 1885) died from the Spanish flu in 1918.  Before that, they both almost died in 1910 when they attempted to win the Michelin aviation prize by flying from Paris to the summit of Puy de Dôme in less than 6 hours.  They crashed near Boissy-Saint-Léger.
Statue at the entrance to the Parc Georges Brassens.

According to the French Wikipedia, Robert Morane and Robert Saulnier started the Société des Aéroplanes Morane-Saulnier in 1911, with offices in Paris and factories in Puteaux.  After World War I, they focused on making planes for teaching and for tourism.  After World War II, the factory moved to in Ossun. 

Both Morane brothers are interred in the Père-Lachaise cemetery.

The street named for the Morane brothers runs alongside the Saint John the Baptist of Grenelle church, and merges with the rue de la Croix-Nivert.  It is the most direct route from our apartment to the rue de la Convention.  Convention really should be called an avenue or a boulevard, because it is wide, with wide sidewalks and lots of mature trees.

I love to walk down shady Parisian avenues like that, especially when traffic isn’t too heavy.  Since yesterday was a holiday and the weather was warm, the time was right to walk down the rue de la Convention to the Parc Georges Brassens.

Along the way, we were charmed by the Passage Dombasle, a little lane between the rue de la Convention and the rue de l’Abbé Groult.  At the Abbe Groult end of the Passage sat a quaint, forlorn former restaurant called Le Passage Gourmet, promising “cuisine raffinée” (fine cuisine) on its sign. 
The Passage Dombasle


After reading about its story on the web, I am now sorry we never visited when Le Passage Gourmet was alive.  Le Passage Gourmet may be gone, but the chef, Jean-Marc Perrain carries on, according to his blog.  He is now at the Marché des Gastronomes on the Place Pigalle in the 9th arrondissement.  His blog informs me that he also was once associated with one of our favorite restaurants which is no longer in existence, L’Espadon Bleu – one of Jacques Cagna’s ventures in the 6th arrondissement.  Oh well.

When we reached our goal, the Parc Georges Brassens, we had to rest our feet for a while.  We gazed up at one of the magnificent cow statues at the entrance, as we sat on a bench in the shade, near other people our age.

Inside the park, young families with kids were everywhere, especially on the hill of boulders where children love to scamper.

The park is on the site of a former slaughterhouse – which brings gruesome images to mind.  But it is named after a famous French songwriter, which brings pleasant images to mind.
Neo-gothic chapel on the rue Blomet


We walked to the far corner of the park, where we peered over a wall to see a a wildly overgrown section of Le Petite Ceinture which has not yet been turned into a pedestrian walkway, or promenade.

Slowly we made our way back toward our neighborhood, back up the rue de la Convention.  I noted that the frames for market stalls stood along a stretch of many, many blocks on this street.  According to the parking signs, this market operates three days a week: Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday.  It is extensive!  We’ll have to visit it sometime.

We turned onto the rue Blomet to veer toward our restaurant for the evening.  As we passed by the Clinique Blomet (private hospital), we noticed its beautiful neo-gothic chapel (Chapel of the Sisters Sainte-Marie-de-la-Famille) rising above the surrounding walls.  This chapel was built around 1890, and has beloved stained glass windows by Louis-Charles-Marie Champigneulle.

We rested on a bench in the Place Adolphe Cherioux, and then it was time for dinner at Le Cap.  That place has changed since last year; dinner was unremarkable, but the café gourmand at the end was colorful.  Afterwards, we had a pleasant stroll home, where we enjoyed another quiet hour on the balcony, as day faded into night.
 
Café Gourmand and a glass of port at Le Cap, across from the 15th arrondissement town hall.


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