A New Day

August 25, 2016 -- I rose at 6:30AM and dressed for my morning walk: black cotton tank top, black Zenergy pants (all Chico’s), black Sketchers, and my black camera bag slung diagonally across my body, with its peace symbol turned outward.  Outside, the air was as cool as it will be today: probably in the lower 70s, with rising humidity.

Statue of boy with seashell at the Village Suisse

I walked silently and swiftly in those Sketchers, up the rue du Commerce and avenue de la Motte Picquet toward the Champ de Mars.  Shops were closed.  A few joggers appeared, here and there.  Trucks tried to make their deliveries before the streets became busy:  a huge bakery truck, a truck with goat cheese from the provinces, a truck with escargots from Rungis (the wholesale market just outside of Paris).

Otherwise, the streets were quiet.  As I approached the neighborhoods on either side of the Champ de Mars, I listened.  Songbirds were singing their morning repertoires.

I moved silently through these neighborhoods and through the gardens on either side of the base of the Eiffel Tower.  I’m always impressed by the thick canopy of tall trees there, and the extreme calm right next to such a major tourist attraction.

To accomplish this loop, I did have to walk for a short distance on the sidewalk of the Quai Branly, right in front of the Tower.  Across the river was the Trocadero.  Nothing was open yet; the throngs of tourists hadn’t arrived.  They were still sipping coffee and eating croissants at their hotels.  The Trocadero appeared to be empty.

The area immediately below the Eiffel Tower is now cordoned off with tall, temporary wire fencing.  A temporary building sits next to the security entrances to house all the security personnel, I guess.  To exit the area under the tower, people must pass through turnstiles not unlike the ones in some of the metro stations.

No longer can one just walk idly through the crowds under the tower.  Movements are tightly controlled there.

One of the planters at the Village Suisse

As I gazed ahead down the streets that would take me back to the avenue de la Motte Picquet, I noticed a slight haze in the air, highlighted by the angled morning sunlight.  A hazy, hot summery day had begun.

To avoid the road work areas at the busy corner of the avenues Suffren and la Motte Picquet, I took a turn through the Village Suisse.  All the antique stores there were closed, but I love to look at the magnificent flower beds in large square planters at the Village Suisse.  Someone works hard on these plantings, and I am dazzled by the results of their efforts.

On the way home, I stopped at the bakery. First, I said good day to the beggar from the neighborhood who often sits near the entrance.  We’ve seen this man on the streets of this neighborhood for several years.  We don't think he is homeless -- he's just living on limited means, with the help of social services and subsidized housing.

I bought the usual baguette for Tom.  Then I turned the corner and headed for home.

I realize that on this walk I’d seen a few homeless people sleeping here and there who do not look as worn out, sick, dirty and desperate as many who have substance abuse problems.  Today, I’d seen some of a different type of homeless – people who look habitually cleaner, more resourceful, and healthier.  I would not be surprised at all to learn that these are refugees – recent arrivals from Syria or Afghanistan.

Duck breast slices in sweet and sour sauce with potatoes au gratin

I’m glad my Sketchers are so quiet that I didn’t disturb their sleep.  I wish all of them well.

France has much in the way of social services to help all the different kinds of homeless people.  In the summer, there are special programs that pick up the slack as some of the private nonprofits take a summer break.  I don’t think anyone has to go hungry in Paris, but some may resist going to the soup kitchens and shelters for various reasons.

Sometimes I see social workers sitting with homeless people, talking with them about their situations.  I think France does a good job of caring for the least of these.

We don’t take for granted our ability to go out and enjoy life here in Paris.  We are thankful, every day. And we’re doing our part to stimulate the economy here – an economy which is slumping.  Business is visibly off.

Last night, we dined at Le Blavet, one of our all-time favorite little Parisian restaurants, tucked away on the rue Lourmel, just off the rue des Entrepreneurs.

Beef filet with foie gras et sauce Perigordine, and potatoes au gratin.

The evening was very warm, and there is no air conditioning at Le Blavet.  So we started with a couple of cool dishes:  gazpacho for Tom, and a salade landaise au copeaux de foie gras, magret de canard fumé et gésier confit for me (a green salad with foie gras, smoked duck, and confit of duck gizzards).  Delicious!

Then came a steak with foie gras and sauce Perigordine for Tom, and slices of roasted duck breast in sweet and sour sauce for me.  Both dishes were accompanied by gratin dauphinoise – potatoes au gratin.  Excellent!

There was too much food, so we spirited away some meat and potatoes in a zippered food storage bag.

For dessert, I had a cool Dame Blanche (ice cream with whipped cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce; Tom had a little apple tart called a panier de pommes (basket of apples) with a luscious creme Anglaise and a little scoop of ice cream --all very pretty, smooth, cool and tasty.

Panier de pommes -- apples in a pastry basket, with Creme Anglaise and
raspberry sauce, accompanied by a scoop of ice cream

This place should be packed every night, and it isn’t.  I don’t understand why.  The prices are amazingly good; my three-course dinner was 27 euros.  Tom’s had a 7-euro supplement because he ordered one item (his steak) from the 34 euro menu.  But 34 euros is also a good deal for three courses!  (Tax and tip are always included in these prices.)

The one criticism we have had about Le Blavet in past years is that the service has been slightly begrudging.  But that wasn’t true last night.  Our server, a young woman, did a good job.

Dame Blanche at Le Blavet

The location of the restaurant is off the beaten path, and I don’t think Le Blavet advertises much.  The restaurant is participating in Lafourchette.com, with a 20 percent discount on certain nights.

For quality and price, you just can’t beat Le Blavet in Paris.