August 25, 2016 -- I rose at 6:30AM and dressed for my morning
walk: black cotton tank top, black Zenergy pants (all Chico’s), black
Sketchers, and my black camera bag slung diagonally across my body, with its
peace symbol turned outward. Outside,
the air was as cool as it will be today: probably in the lower 70s, with rising
humidity.
Statue of boy with seashell at the Village Suisse |
I walked silently and swiftly in those Sketchers, up the rue
du Commerce and avenue de la Motte Picquet toward the Champ de Mars. Shops were closed. A few joggers appeared, here and there. Trucks tried to make their deliveries before
the streets became busy: a huge bakery
truck, a truck with goat cheese from the provinces, a truck with escargots from
Rungis (the wholesale market just outside of Paris).
Otherwise, the streets were quiet. As I approached the neighborhoods on either
side of the Champ de Mars, I listened.
Songbirds were singing their morning repertoires.
I moved silently through these neighborhoods and through the
gardens on either side of the base of the Eiffel Tower. I’m always impressed by the thick canopy of
tall trees there, and the extreme calm right next to such a major tourist
attraction.
To accomplish this loop, I did have to walk for a short
distance on the sidewalk of the Quai Branly, right in front of the Tower. Across the river was the Trocadero. Nothing was open yet; the throngs of tourists
hadn’t arrived. They were still sipping
coffee and eating croissants at their hotels.
The Trocadero appeared to be empty.
The area immediately below the Eiffel Tower is now cordoned
off with tall, temporary wire fencing. A
temporary building sits next to the security entrances to house all the
security personnel, I guess. To exit the
area under the tower, people must pass through turnstiles not unlike the ones
in some of the metro stations.
No longer can one just walk idly through the crowds under
the tower. Movements are tightly
controlled there.
One of the planters at the Village Suisse |
As I gazed ahead down the streets that would take me back to
the avenue de la Motte Picquet, I noticed a slight haze in the air, highlighted
by the angled morning sunlight. A hazy,
hot summery day had begun.
To avoid the road work areas at the busy corner of the
avenues Suffren and la Motte Picquet, I took a turn through the Village
Suisse. All the antique stores there were
closed, but I love to look at the magnificent flower beds in large square
planters at the Village Suisse. Someone
works hard on these plantings, and I am dazzled by the results of their
efforts.
On the way home, I stopped at the bakery. First, I said good
day to the beggar from the neighborhood who often sits near the entrance. We’ve seen this man on the streets of this
neighborhood for several years. We don't think he is homeless -- he's just living on limited means, with the help of social services and subsidized housing.
I bought the usual baguette for Tom. Then I turned the corner and headed for home.
I realize that on this walk I’d seen a few homeless people
sleeping here and there who do not look as worn out, sick, dirty and desperate
as many who have substance abuse problems.
Today, I’d seen some of a different type of homeless – people who look
habitually cleaner, more resourceful, and healthier. I would not be surprised at all to learn that
these are refugees – recent arrivals from Syria or Afghanistan.
Duck breast slices in sweet and sour sauce with potatoes au gratin |
I’m glad my Sketchers are so quiet that I didn’t disturb
their sleep. I wish all of them well.
France has much in the way of social services to help all
the different kinds of homeless people.
In the summer, there are special programs that pick up the slack as some
of the private nonprofits take a summer break.
I don’t think anyone has to go hungry in Paris, but some may resist
going to the soup kitchens and shelters for various reasons.
Sometimes I see social workers sitting with homeless people,
talking with them about their situations.
I think France does a good job of caring for the least of these.
We don’t take for granted our ability to go out and enjoy
life here in Paris. We are thankful, every
day. And we’re doing our part to stimulate the economy here – an economy which
is slumping. Business is visibly off.
Last night, we dined at Le Blavet, one of our all-time
favorite little Parisian restaurants, tucked away on the rue Lourmel, just off
the rue des Entrepreneurs.
Beef filet with foie gras et sauce Perigordine, and potatoes au gratin. |
The evening was very warm, and there is no air conditioning
at Le Blavet. So we started with a
couple of cool dishes: gazpacho for Tom,
and a salade landaise au copeaux de foie
gras, magret de canard fumé et gésier confit for me (a green salad with foie gras, smoked duck, and confit of
duck gizzards). Delicious!
Then came a steak with foie
gras and sauce Perigordine for
Tom, and slices of roasted duck breast in sweet and sour sauce for me. Both dishes were accompanied by gratin dauphinoise – potatoes au gratin. Excellent!
There was too much food, so we spirited away some meat and
potatoes in a zippered food storage bag.
For dessert, I had a cool Dame Blanche (ice cream with
whipped cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce; Tom had a little apple tart called a panier de pommes (basket of apples) with a luscious creme Anglaise and a little scoop of ice cream --all very pretty, smooth, cool and tasty.
Panier de pommes -- apples in a pastry basket, with Creme Anglaise and raspberry sauce, accompanied by a scoop of ice cream |
This place should be packed every night, and it isn’t. I don’t understand why. The prices are amazingly good; my
three-course dinner was 27 euros. Tom’s
had a 7-euro supplement because he ordered one item (his steak) from the 34
euro menu. But 34 euros is also a good
deal for three courses! (Tax and tip are
always included in these prices.)
The one criticism we have had about Le Blavet in past years
is that the service has been slightly begrudging. But that wasn’t true last night. Our server, a young woman, did a good job.
Dame Blanche at Le Blavet |
The location of the restaurant is off the beaten path, and I
don’t think Le Blavet advertises much. The
restaurant is participating in Lafourchette.com, with a 20 percent discount on
certain nights.
For quality and price, you just can’t beat Le Blavet in
Paris.
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