Those strikes involved taxi drivers, labor unions, refuse
collectors, and airline and railroad workers.
I know I was worried about those – especially Air France pilot strikes –
when we were originally scheduled to travel here in late June. Tom and I were negatively affected by an AF pilot
strike two summers ago. We didn’t want
to go through that again!
The strikers announce their strikes in advance; the
terrorists do not.
Sunset on August 5, as seen from our balcony. |
Oh, we tried our darnedest to get here this year, but we
were delayed by a month. The strikes
didn’t deter us; neither did terrorism. We
struggled with medical adventures and such, and finally we made it. Better late than never.
We do notice the reduction in numbers of foreign
tourists. Now it is easier to spot
French tourists who have come into the city from the provinces to enjoy all
that the capitol has to offer. Now it is
also more apparent how many people in Paris are wearing traditional Muslim
attire. Without such huge masses of
American, Japanese, and Chinese tourists, it is simply easier to notice
everyone else.
If the first few days are any indication, I think people are
being nicer than ever to us. The judge
who lives three floors below us stopped to chat with us at the elevator, to make us feel
welcome. That’s the first time she has
done so in the 18 years we’ve been summering here. Shopkeepers and cashiers are especially kind,
too. Maybe everyone is being nicer to
everyone else now. What the world needs
now, is love, sweet love . . . .
Native American woman braids a young woman's hair as her mother watches, at the 7th arrondissement's fair on the Champ de Mars. |
On the second evening we were in Paris, nature treated us to
a fabulous sunset sky. Yesterday, nature
gave us lots of sun and warm temperatures (low 80s F), so we walked down to the
great park André Citroën. The park was
crammed with locals – including lots of families with lots of kids -- enjoying
abundant sunny and shady spots on the esplanade and in the gardens and woods. The hot air balloon was operating, giving a
birdseye view of it all to anyone who wanted to buy a ticket.
Our dinner reservation was at Le Tipaza, on the rue Saint
Charles, not far from the park. We were
welcomed by three gentlemen at the door.
Apparently, they remember my favorable reviews from last summer.
The dinner met and exceeded our expectations at this place featuring North African cuisine. The grilled meats were as good as ever, but
the vegetables also amazed us this time – from the kemia mis-en-bouche to the Berber salad to the amazing ratatouille. I do love restaurants that pay attention to
the vegetables (instead of treating them like a forgettable garnish).
My reaction to the ratatouille was like that of the restaurant critic in the movie Ratatouille -- remember when he tastes it, and the flavor transports him back in time, to the memory of his mother's incomparable ratatouille?
Yes, it was THAT good! (No my mother did not make ratatouille; but you get the idea!)
The Maison de la Chimie, 28 rue Saint-Dominique, 7th arrondissement |
Speaking of kemia (the assorted marinated vegetable hors d’oeuvres
served with drinks at the beginning of a North African dinner), I now realize
that kemia is also the word for “chemistry” in a number of languages.
On Saturday’s walk home, we had paused in front of the
Maison de la Chimie (Chemistry House) in the 7th arrondissement. This institution is located in what was once
a very stately home, and it has recently been renovated. Its broad, bright, clean, and restored stone façade
is now decorated with banners extolling the importance of the science of
Chemistry.
Left end of the Maison de la Chimie |
I love that about the French: generally they are NOT
anti-intellectuals, and they believe in science. Whereas an intellectual has nary a chance of
being elected to higher office in the U.S. (our current President being the
exception), in France, that happens frequently.
Politicians here even publish poetry, and they aren’t ridiculed for it
(unless it is really bad poetry).
The Maison is actually a conference center, run by its own
foundation/nonprofit organization. Its
primary purpose is to help scientists and engineers working in the chemistry
world, but because of its location so close to the National Assembly, many
other kinds of important functions and gatherings are held there as well.
The Maison de la Chimie is perhaps the most beautiful
example of a stately home being used for an institutional purpose in the 7th
arrondissement, but there are so many fine examples . . . .
Right end of the Maison de la Chimie. |
Today, we’re falling into the routine that we have in the
summer; Tom is working on the next edition of The Norton
Sampler, and I’m blogging, as you can tell (after having extended our
wireless network in the apartment). I’ll
probably go out walking and doing errands this afternoon, and in the evening, Tom
and I will go for a walk together, and will dine who knows where? On va
voir.
1 comment:
I guess I had the impression most Algerian and other Arab immigrants from North Africa live in the suburbs. Do some of them live in the area where you are staying?
Do you see many people who likely came from SE Asia?
If you compare Paris to NYC, do you see differences or more similarities in how different cultures and religions chose to stay apart or live together?
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