Tough guys on the avenue

July 23, 2018 -- The Avenue Émile Zola is frequently included in my Paris walks because it is wide, shaded by tall locust trees, and lined with interesting buildings.  The avenue leads to the Seine at a complicated intersection that includes a picturesque, old, tiny brick train station that is now part of the RER C commuter train line.

In the first decade of my Paris walks, the SMA building on Avenue Émile Zola was not one of my favorites because of its stark modernity.  But it grew on me, partly because it sits sideways on its site, allowing for some green space that includes some stately trees, facing the avenue.

Now the building is undergoing renovation that will include a new addition on the site of that green space.  At least, the new part is going to have a vegetated roof.

Graffiti with an English caption on the construction fence
around the SMA building on Avenue Émile Zola.
Notice the locust blossoms covering the sidewalk.

Today I learned more about that building.  It is the headquarters for an insurance company that specializes in insurance for businesses.

The main architect for the original building was Raymond Lopez (1904-1966).  He was known for his urban plans for cities like Dakar and Nevers.  In Paris, he was one of the “masterminds” behind the Front-de-Seine, the always-controversial collection of modern high-rise buildings on the Seine, southwest of the Eiffel Tower.  His partner in that adventure was Henri Pottier. 

The SMA building is not far from the Front-de-Seine, but it is only 11 stories high.  That’s still taller than the predominant, 19^th Century, Haussmannian buildings on the avenue, which are generally 6 to 8 stories tall, at most.

I've seen lots of large city buses that are now electric.  Here is a small electric bus that connects the
new Microsoft France campus in Issy-les-Moulineaux (just outside the city limits) with major
commuter trains (RER) and tramway stations.  Microsoft recently announced plans to start two
Artificial Intelligence schools in France; one is at the Issy-les-Moulineaux campus.

I notice that Raymond only lived to be 62 (my age) and that he died in the year that the SMA building was completed.

Mostly, he was known for the buildings he designed in the 1950s.  Some examples of his work are  la tour Bois-le-Prêtre, le siège de la Fédération nationale du bâtiment, le siège social du groupe DCNS, le centre d’affaires Paris Cap Nord.

I personally like the DCNS building, built in 1959, which also happens to be in the 15^th arrondissement on the rue Viala.

High rises known as the Front-de-Seine, as seen from the Pont de Grenelle.

In my photos, you’ll no doubt notice the vegetation detritus on the pavement in this part of town.  That consists of fallen honey locust blossums.  When I took my shoes off in the apartment after this walk, I saw that the soles were plastered with mashed honey locust blooms.  Just so you know, in French, this messy tree – the honey locust – is called a févier d'Amérique.  Many of these fast-growing trees were planted after 2000, when an almost-hurricane took down lots of street trees in Paris.  It may not be wise to have such a monoculture of honey locust trees lining the streets of much of the 15^th; but the honey locust does have a reputation as one very tough street tree.