Maria the house cleaner was so happy to see us on Monday. She not only gave us the two kisses, but also hugged us each enthusiastically. She said we are good friends who only see each other once a year. (That's because she goes on a couple months' vacation to see family in Portugal, and she leaves soon after the time we arrive.) We kidded around about the miracle of a new vacuum cleaner appearing in the apartment this year.
Maria the guardienne (concierge) also bestowed kisses and bear hugs upon us. We laughed, we joked, we asked about each others' families. We talked about local real estate, and we all expressed our affection for this building in particular.
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| At AMALivre publisher/bookstore near the Square Dupleix, a tote bag is given if you buy books in their American collection. |
So far, three of the neighbors in the building have seen us. Each one has been more than civil, more than cordial, more than merely friendly. They've been friendly and enthusiastically welcoming, wishing us a delightful summer in Paris. We're certainly not transient AirBnB people; we've been coming here since 1998, staying two or three months each year in the same apartment building. I guess we're part of the family now.
At each of the restaurants we've dined in so far this Parisian summer, we've been not only recognized but also warmly greeted, emphatically welcomed, and served with gentle care.
Last night's restaurant is my favorite in Paris: l'Alchimie. Chef Eric Rogoff and his wife greeted us like long lost friends at the door and let us choose our table. The blackboard was presented, with Madame Rogoff's meticulously neat, lovely handwritten deliciously descriptive words about gastronomic possibilities for the evening.
We selected the foie gras (always served in some creative fashion by Chef Eric -- this time, Asian style) and a shrimp and veggie tart for starter courses. Then we each had a perfect sole meunière, which was served in the required pool of clarified butter, but with a broccoli flan instead of potatoes. Delicious!
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| Sole Meunière at l'Alchimie, served with broccoli flan |
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| Strawberry macaroon at l'Alchimie. |
We felt great when we left the restaurant and made the short walk home. Before dinner, we walked up to the Champ de Mars so that Tom could see the Eiffel Tower up close for the first time this summer. I'd seen it on my early morning walk the other day, while Tom was sleeping in, recovering from jet lag.
The big picnic/party on the Champ was in full swing. Tourists and locals were scattered and lounging all over the lawn, mostly on blankets or tablecloths spread out on the battered grass. The illegal vendors of Eiffel Tower trinkets had, for the most part, switched over to illegal selling of wine and beer. It is illegal to consume alcoholic beverages in this park, but from what I can see, that law is never enforced. Well, maybe it is if someone gets into a fight or something, but the scene is almost always convivial and harmless.
We enjoyed looking at the flowerbeds. So many talented gardeners are employed by the City of Paris! Their work is appreciated by us. Tom found a blooming mimosa tree, which reminded him in a good way about his childhood, so he posed under it for a photo. Doesn't he look pleased to be there?
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| Tom is happy beneath a blooming mimosa tree, just like the ones in Gaffney, SC, where he grew up. |
I took another solo walk this morning, up to the Champ via the Square Dupleix, crossing over to the rue de Grenelle in the 7th arrondissement, and down the rue Cler, a pedestrianized market street.
In the Square Dupleix was the familiar, colorful June/July sight of the Gontelli's mini circus tent. The little circus is closed now for a couple days, but soon will re-open with the bargain admission price of 5 euros per kid (and adult).
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| The Gontelli's little circus tent, set up by the playground in the Square Dupleix. |
It was so early that the fruit and vegetable vendors on the rue Cler were still setting up, and delivery trucks were partially filling the brick pavement while their drivers toiled away at the task of unloading. In another hour, they'd be gone.
Passing La Terasse brasserie at the corner across from the Ècole Militaire, I saw businessmen doing business over coffee, next to tables of early-rising tourists staring into coffee cups as they munched on croissants. This is torture to someone who has not yet had coffee and is nearing the end of her daily 12 hour fast, but I'll survive.
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| This sign in the Square Dupleix is one of many in Paris parks that are part of a war against rats. The sign asks park users to take particular care with disposing of their trash at the park. |
I walked by the Longines equestrian event site, temporarily set up at the Ècole Militaire end of the Champ de Mars. I think this is the last day of that event. As soon as the temporary bleachers, dozens of tents, fences, and horse trailers disappear, the City of Paris will begin preparations on the Champ for the fantastic Bastille day fireworks and concert production. I can't wait; I adore that spectacle.
On the way home, I decided to try the Ernest & Valentin bakery for the first time because I like the looks of their country breads. I selected a partial loaf of the Charenton 7 grain bread. As I carried it home, I could feel some heat still emanating from the bread.
Somehow I managed not to eat it until I was home, showered, dressed for the day, and at the end of the 12 hour fast. I'm ready for more of Paris now!
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