Coming back to life slowly

Notre Dame de Paris is slowly, very slowly, coming back to life.  The enormity of the project is even more apparent now than it was in the immediate aftermath of the fire.  Now, with many windows removed and wooden braces built up beneath the flying buttresses, the cathedral looks fragile.

Charming doorways on Rue Frédéric Sauton in the 5th arrondissement.

A large construction crane has been set up on the north side of the structure.  Solid metal construction fencing encircles the grounds.  We were moved, but not surprised, by the cathedral views as we walked along the left bank by the booksellers, along the Pont de l'Archeveche, and up the Rue Chanoinesse.

Notre Dame de Paris, as seen from the booksellers row on the left bank (above and below).

Notre Dame de Paris from the Pont de l'Archeveche (above and below).

Notre Dame de Paris as seen from the Quai de l'Archeveche.

Construction crane on Rue Massillon and Rue du Cloitre Notre Dame (above and below).

We left the somber sight as we turned on the Quai de la Corse and followed along the back side of the Hotel Dieu hospital.  Then we came upon the cheerful flower and bird market by the Cité metro stop -- one of those lovely Guimard-designed metro entrances (photo below)
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Then we continued up the Rue de Lutece, and around to stately Place Dauphine, where we rested while watching two men play boules in the golden dirt.

Men playing boules in Place Dauphine.

When we crossed the Seine and continued walking along the quai, we admired the newly widened sidewalks.  Some of that work is still under way.  When it is all done, the Quai Malaquais, Quai Voltaire, and Quai Anatole France will have far more space for pedestrians (and bikes), and less for cars.

Just before we reached the Musée D'Orsay, at the corner of Rue du Bac and Quai Voltaire, we stopped for refreshments at Le Frégate, as we often do when we take a walk like this one on a Sunday afternoon.  If we had not had lunch at the apartment, we would have had a full Sunday afternoon feast at Le Frégate.  I remember having classic dishes like blanquette de veau  in the Frégate's beautiful Art Nouveau dining room.  Yesterday, however, we chose to sit outside, on the Rue du Bac.

Restored by the refreshments and rest, we walked down the ramp to the bank of the Seine, where we noticed new floating cafés and other amenities.  As I waited for Tom to use the restroom, I saw a model who'd been participating in a photo shoot.  She was unusual because she had a congenital nevus all over, like I do; but hers is more noticable because it occurs as splotches of color, whereas mine is dots, like freckles, but distributed weirdly in patches.

When my granddaughters noticed my congenital nevus, they said, "THAT's different!  But that's good.  It is okay to be different.  It's good to be different." I'm proud of them.

There are a number of French fashion models with large birthmarks now.  It is a thing.

We walked along the bank until we reached the Pont des Invalides, where we realized that we'd reached our five-mile goal.  So we ascended to the street level and hailed a cab from a bus stop on the Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg.

Place Dauphine.

In the evening, we reserved and dined at Le Café du Commerce because Tom wanted the special of the day, onglet de boeuf (flank steak), and I wanted the classic aile de raie (skate).  The restaurant did not disappoint.  Both dishes were excellent.  Tom's came with a fascinating red cabbage that was zingy with vinegar and pepper -- very nice!  We shared a fresh green side salad with a vinaigrette that was almost as good as one of mine.

Aile de raie at Le Café du Commerce.

Onglet de boeuf at Le Café du Commerce.

Café gourmand at Le Café du Commerce.

Again I wondered why skate isn't served frequently in Florida restaurants.  It is a mild but tasty fish, and the bones are so large that they are easily removed.  Skate is great with a lemon-beurre blanc sauce like the one the Commerce serves.  The skate came with large, flavorful capers, too, along with steamed potatoes and croutons.

We shared the tiny desserts that came with Tom's café gourmand.  We were home in time to sit out on the balcony in the fading light.

Here are some more photos from the day's trek:

A café on Rue Chanoinesse (above and below).  I love the rattan hearts on the wisteria.

Bird cages at the bird and flower market on the Île de la Cité (above and below).

Rue de Lutece, with Sainte Chapelle and the Conciergerie straight ahead.

Cité metro entrance and bird & flower market.

Place Dauphine (above and below).

The Passerelle des Arts, with new railings where people cannot hang padlocks (above and below).

The French Academy (above and below).

A pretty new floating café called La Pause (above and below).

Fluctuart, floating gallery on the bank of the Seine.

Fabric street art on a tree on the bank of the Seine.