Saturday, August 24, 2019

Finding the most beautiful way

The Montparnasse cemetery was opened in the early part of the 19th Century, when Paris was growing rapidly.  When people died, most had to be interred outside the city limits in cemeteries like this one, Passy, Pere Lachaise and Montmartre.  (These areas were annexed to Paris in about 1860.)

To me, the history of the Montparnasse cemetery site is unclear because the information in Wikipedia conflicts with that of https://frenchmoments.eu/montparnasse-cemetery/.  Which is correct?  Who knows.

So there are either 35,000 or 42,000 plots in the Montparnasse cemetery, and over 300,000 people are interred there.  Montparnasse either was a hill named Mont Parnassus or it was a dumping ground for rubble, and jokingly called "Mont Parnasse."  The cemetery's old windmill (minus its blades) dates back to the 14th Century or the 17th Century.  The land was originally three farms that date back to the Middle Ages or just to the 17th Century.

One thing that seems to be certain is that the land was once owned by the Hotel Dieu (public hospital) and an order of monks (either the Brothers of Charity or the Brothers Hospitallers of St. John of God).  Prior to its official opening as a cemetery in 1824, the land may have been used for burials of bodies that were unclaimed at the Hotel Dieu.

Simone de Beauvoir and Jean Paul Sartre are buried together in the Montparnasse Cemetery (above and below).


In spite of the uncertain history, I like walking in the old cemeteries because they are veritable arboretums, they're quiet and cool, and they have some great statuary. 

The entrance to the Montparnasse cemetery is in the middle of its side along the Boulevard Edgar Quinet.  The best way to go there if you are strolling down the Boulevard du Montparnasse is to turn into the Galeries des Parnassiens, next door to the fancy Brasserie La Coupole.

This covered shopping gallery leads to Rue Delambre and Square Delambre, which ends almost directly across from the cemetery's entrance.

Nikki Saint Phalle, a sculptor, created this monument for the grave of her assistant, Ricardo.
By the time I returned home from this 5-mile hike, the day was warming up.  We didn't venture out again until evening.  For the first time in the 22  summers we've been staying in this apartment, we tried dining at Au Rendez Vous Des Amis, just down the street.  Until last year, this restaurant didn't look appealing to us.  Then something changed.

There was fresh paint, a cleaner look, a new ceiling with new lighting.  White tablecloths appeared.  Daily dinner specials featuring classic French dishes were offered -- but usually only one or two each day, while the remaining menu is couscous and a variety of grilled meats.

A monument in the Montparnasse cemetery.
The prices, in spite of these improvements, are still incredibly low.  We each had three courses last night. Added to that, a big bottle of sparkling water and a generous glass of wine, all for a total of 37 euros.

The food was merely good, not great, but it certainly was good value.  I had a simple tomato and lettuce salad to start with, while Tom had a slice of terrine.  We each had the special of the day, a small sea bass filet en papillote served with yellow rice and green peas.  Tom had a big slice of cream-filled cake for dessert, and I had the home-made dark chocolate mousse.


Early this morning, while still fasting, I did my five-mile trek in the cool morning air in the 7th arrondissement.  I found a prettily charming street, Rue Cognacq Jay, lined with flowering shrubs on both sides, paralleling and near the Seine in the 7th arrondissement.

Flowering shrubs line Rue Cognacq Jay.


Today, the weather is ramping up for another 4-day heat wave, Sunday to Wednesday; then the temperatures will start to descend back to normal.  That means early morning walks for me, and late evening walks for Tom, until Thursday or so.

Here are some more photos from yesterday:

Notre Dame des Champs church on Boulevard du Montparnasse.

Inscription on the gravestone of Gus Erlich, a cartoonist and humorist: 
He was above those religions that make men fight.
He had found the most beautiful way:
he loved everyone.
Love one another and pray for him according to your faith.


Shop on Rue Lecourbe that has been selling honey since 1921.


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