Sunday, July 07, 2019

Very Vaugirard

People were filing into the Catholic church of St. John the Baptist of Grenelle as I began my morning walk toward another open-air food market. This is a fairly conservative church, sited on what had once been the center of the village of Grenelle which, in the early 19th century, was outside the City of Paris.

The neighboring village, Vaugirard, is where I was headed this morning.  Like Grenelle, Vaugirard was added to the City in the 1860s.  The two villages and their environs comprise what is now the 15th arrondissement -- the biggest district in Paris, both size-wise and population wise.

The painter Paul Gaugin once lived in this house on the Rue Blomet. 
He rented it from Armand Félix Marie Jobbé-Duval (a painter and politician).
The food market on the Rue de la Convention was in full swing when I arrived at the western end of it, near the brasserie called La Source and the beginning of the Rue Alain Chartier.
The Convention market clientele in the Vaugirard part of the 15th is really middle class, I'd say, in a very good way, compared to the upper-middle-class to moderately rich clientele of the market on Avenue Président Wilson in the 16th arrondissement.

Two old village-y buildings on the Rue Pétel in what was once the village of Vaugirard,
now part of the 15th arrondissement.

If you are looking for good buys, I think the Convention market is a good bet.  It is also significantly closer to Rungis, the big wholesale food market, which is the source for so many food markets, groceries, and restaurants in Paris.

I don't take photographs at the open air markets because I'd be too much in the face of the shoppers, and much too much in their way.  I just move along and take it all in.

After I completed the circuit at the market, I walked back through what was once the center of the village of Vaugirard, past its central church, St. Lambert de Vaugirard, where I could hear organ music.
The neighborhood cinema on Rue Péclet and Rue Léon L'Hermitte.
This church, built in the 19th century, is said to be one of the finest examples of neo-Romanesque architecture in Paris.  It replaced a church that dated back to 1342; that older church was several blocks away, on what is now Place Henri Rollet.

The last church I passed on my way home was an Evangelical Lutheran church on Rue Quinault -- a place of worship that Google does not recognize, but I know has been there for decades, at least.  This was the first time I'd seen its doors open.  A few congregants were inside, and I could see that more were on their way.  The church is ministering especially to those of Korean roots, and a message in Hangul letters was engraved in wood, to the right of the front doors.  If this Protestant church's services were in English or French, I'd go there, but I think they are probably in Hangul.

Not far from the Lutheran church on Rue Quinault is a cooking school called L'Ateliers des Chefs, on Rue Péclet.  Take a look at the English version of their web site.  Looks like fun!

And here are some more scenes from this morning's walk.

Lovely carving above the door at 4 rue Péclet.

The rue de Viroflay has a gate at the far end.


This colorful place at 85 rue l'Abbé Groult is actually a music school.

An architectural workshop on the rue l'Abbé Groult (above and below).


Peeking in through the doors of an old convent, which is now the
Clinique Blomet, a private hospital (above and below).  The neo-gothic
chapel was built for the Sisters of St. Mary of the Family.


A burger joint with pretty good reviews, on the rue l'Abbé Groult.
The meat is Halal, and the drinks have no alcohol.

The fountain in the pleasant square behind the church of St. John the Baptist of Grenelle.




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